Eric Arnow, US expat traveling across Russia. Boots-on-the-ground with real Russian people. Part Three. China Rising Radio Sinoland 231022



By Jeff J. Brown

Pictured above: Eric Arnow with Putin and Xi in Moscow.

Sixteen years on the streets, living and working with the people of China, Jeff

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Previous shows,

Eric Arnow, US expat traveling across Russia. Boots-on-the-ground with real Russian people. China Rising Radio Sinoland 230810


Eric Arnow, US expat traveling across Russia. Boots-on-the-ground with real Russian people: PART TWO. China Rising Radio Sinoland 230907

Before starting today,

Eric’s website

Moscow Victory Museum panorama of ordinary heroes

Bunker 42 Atomic Bomb Simulation

One of several side exhibits. A simulation of the Battle of Leningrad. At the top of the battle scene is a quote saying that Leningrad is to be destroyed along with its people. With a million dead–more than all Allied persons in the whole war–the Germans nearly succeeded, along with their Finnish allies.

When I first arrived in the downtown Moscow Metro station, I heard and saw this music group…two violins and a cello. I later learned from a Russian friend that it is a popular Russian song about romance. This rendition is better than the original. Truly captures Russian soulful spirit.

Today’s Part 3,

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Audio (download at the bottom of this page),


Jeff J Brown (Host): This is Jeff J. Brown China Rising Radio Sinoland with Eric Arnaud just returned from beautiful, exciting, interesting Russia. How are you doing, Eric?

Eric Arnow (Guest): Fine, thanks, Jeff. It’s been great talking with you and interacting with all kinds of people. This afternoon, in fact, I was at a coffee shop with a couple of Chinese people and I saw another woman come in I mistook her for a Russian woman whom I had met at some other event. And I went up to her and I said, “Excuse me, are you Russian?” She says, “Duh” in that. She was the wrong person but we had a very interesting conversation. So, this is life in Chiang Mai.

You never know who you’re going to run into. But let me launch into this because basically, Jeff, what I want to do is use my photos as a kind of cheat sheet, you might say, for my experiences and impressions in Russia. And in our earlier conversation, I talked mostly about my coming to Moscow. And I’m going to continue on with that because there was more stuff that happened in Moscow that I didn’t get to yet.

So, I’m going to start off with the, we talked about Stalin’s Bunker 42, which was a bomb shelter started by Stalin during World War Two, and it was not completed until after he died. But this was at the height of the Cold War. And so, the Soviet leadership decided that they needed an atomic bomb-proof bomb shelter along with a missile launching or a bomb, I guess you could say a counterattack launching facility.

And part of this part of this presentation, this exhibition in this museum is a simulated attack on the bomb shelter itself. So, hang on to your seats, folks, and I’m going to start off with that. We’re in a tunnel and the lights are flashing on and off. And you can hear an announcer saying hold on to your hats and kiss your ass goodbye, basically. Okay, so that’s that I hope that gives you a taste of what’s going on there. Do you still see me on screen, Jeff? Uh oh, no, I don’t hear you.

Jeff: I muted my microphone just so you wouldn’t have any background noise.

Eric: All right. Okay. So, okay, so now what I’m going to do is go through, I’m assuming that you can still see me. Is that correct?

Jeff: Yes, absolutely.

Eric: Great. Okay, so, let’s see. So, in the bunker, this museum they had a place where security was extremely tight. This bunker lasted, I don’t know, 30 or 40 years. And they never had a breach of security. But the security was very, very tight. And there was a specific place where they say your documents, please, this sort of thing. And then they took us to this room where there’s a screen where it shows, I don’t know if I can do this. It shows nine seconds to impact, which is well, you can’t see it because it’s.

Jeff: Well, I’ll splice it into our show.

Eric: Right. Okay. So, it shows nine seconds to impact. They show a blast-proof door. And so that was the bunker 42. The next thing that comes up here is that I met this fellow Kirill, through Couchsurfer, which is this online app where you can meet people in foreign countries. They have a couch that they’re willing to let you use. They want to see foreigners. Foreigners want to meet people in this country. And so, we became good friends. And he basically gave me the use of his apartment for about ten days.

And one day I showed up. I came back to the apartment and this side of salmon showed up in the refrigerator. And usually, when you think of salmon, it’s this kind of light orange or pink kind of thing. This is deep, deep red Kamchatka Peninsula salmon. So, when salmon is living in its natural habitat, not in farmed situations, which is what region salmon is, and a lot of basically most of the salmon that’s sold nowadays. But if you get the salmon that is living off of the real sea creatures that come in the natural environment, you have a completely different product.

It’s the color is more intense, the flavor is more intense, and it’s just really something special. And I wanted to and I should expand on that because if you go to you hear about sanctions. Russia is under sanctions and I’m hearing stories about Great Britain where there are serious shortages of food. They’re even rationing fruits and vegetables in great in England. And you go into a supermarket in Russia and it’s packed with everything you could possibly want. So, I’ll be showing a couple of pictures of that as well as we move forward.

Jeff: Yeah, I’ll splice, I’ll put all these pictures in the written transcript.

Eric: Okay. The next thing I wanted to talk about was my return to Tretyakov Gallery and there are amazing pictures in there. There’s one particular image of a painting of Leo Tolstoy.

Jeff: Before you get going so what you’re saying then is in Russia, there are no food shortages when you go to the grocery stores?

Eric: Absolutely. Not only was there not a food shortage, there was a food glut. There were more choices of what you could ever possibly want than anything I’ve ever seen, certainly in Thailand. I don’t know what it’s like now. I went to a supermarket near my friend Kirill’s place. I wanted to buy him a bottle of wine to express my thanks. And there were like four aisles of different kinds of wines, not to mention liquors from numerous different countries. And that was just the wine section.

So, it was amazing. Anyway, I mentioned yesterday that my friend Tonia helped me get a refund from Aeroflot Airlines. And after that, I said, okay, Tonya, let’s go to a real Soviet restaurant. And of course, the Soviet Union is no more. But there is a lot of sentiment for the Soviet Union. So, we went to a Soviet-themed restaurant, and on the wall was a picture. It’s like it’s a poster, basically of various fraternal peoples of the Soviet Union. And when I talk with Soviet-era people, I say well, what was it like?

And they said, we had a country, we got along with everybody. Everything was fine and it was peaceful. There were no conflicts. Ukraine, these were our brothers in Ukraine and our brothers in the Central Asian republics and so on. And you can see that depicted in these kinds of posters. And so, it’s not just a poster. It’s like people’s actual lived experience. And the reason I bring it up is because we’re facing so much divisiveness in the world, in our own countries between countries like everybody is a war of all against all here.

And there was a period of time in the Soviet Union when it just wasn’t like that. Now, lurching on here, when you’re in Moscow, you never really know who you’re going to meet. And there’s a very famous street in Moscow called Arbat Street, and it is a kind of iconic tourist attraction where they have a lot of souvenir shops and things like that. Well, I ran into two very interesting people, Vladimir Putin and Xi Jinping, standing there. And I thought, well I’d just take my picture with them. Well, needless to say, they are cutouts and they’re standing there basically, they’re waiting for it’s a photo opportunity for tourists. And I fell for it hook, line, and sinker.

Jeff: Well, I would, too. I’d like to be pictured with Vladimir Putin and Xi Jinping with my arms around him. That’d be cool.

Eric: Yeah. Well, there you go. That’s what was happening. So now the other thing that’s really cool about Moscow especially, and I think other cities too, is that both on the streets and in the metro stations that is the subway system, there are a lot of street musicians and they’re just playing their stuff. I’m going to see I don’t know if I can do this. I’m going to try and see. [Music] Well, that’s it gives you an idea. And they’re singing along in the station. So that was pretty, pretty cool. Okay, next I mentioned that I had gone to the Victory Park and Victory Museum.

So, what I’ve noticed is that there’s this is my impression and I could be wrong, but my impression is that the perception of Russia as a country and of the Soviet Union very significantly based on whatever generation a person is, and almost every Soviet-era person that I’ve met with very few exceptions, has a very positive view of the Soviet Union. After the Soviet Union fell, the West swooped in and stole all their money, and they also drastically changed the education system to basically say the Soviet Union was bad and everything about the West was good.

Eric: Well recent events have made it pretty clear to a lot of Russians, especially the younger generation that is the generation that’s up and coming that things are not exactly like what their older brothers and sisters were told. And so, in Victory Park, I was walking along and there were these tents where you could meet some of these people. And they have little exhibitions of, I guess you could say military paraphernalia. We talked about this last time.

And so, this picture, I have a picture of these three teenage girls and I had a nice chat with them in my limited Russian. So that was that. Let’s see. Let’s move on here. Victory Park is unique because it also shows both the triumphs of the Soviet Union, but also of the triumph of Russia over Napoleon and also the triumph of the revolution. So, you get a sense what they’re doing is they’re giving people a historical sense of what Russia is about. It gives a historical context, giving actual experience.

And one of the things that they have there is they have a French arc of triumph because you see Napoleon in NATO, this was NATO circa 1812. Okay. For those of you who don’t get my joke, Russia was not invaded by Napoleon in 1812 by just France. There were other countries that were invading Russia, like Germany and Poland and other countries. This, this NATO thing has been going on for hundreds of years and it’s getting just really, really tired of it but they wanted to kind of troll France, so they put up an arc to Triumph in Victory Park.

And let’s see what we got coming up here. Then it just talked about some of the history of this, how Napoleon entered Moscow, thinking that he was going to conquer Russia by conquering the capital. Instead, a fire broke out, destroying the city, but it also destroyed his support base. In other words, he was planning to live off the land. It was scorched earth, and as a result, the French army had nothing to live on. And so, they were starving and freezing in the middle of winter. And they had to march back to France.

And of course, the Russians had enlisted General Winter, so to speak, to harass them along with the Russian military, the Russian army that chased them all the way back to Paris. So, Europe, wake up. Russia doesn’t start wars. They end wars. And not in a way that Europeans would like to experience. Let’s see what else have we got here. We’ve got some great posters, soviet-era posters, I think are the most. They’re really terrific.

I got pictures of Stalin and Dzerzhinsky, who was the founder of the secret police who tracked down the Tsarists and other opponents of the revolution. And as an aside, if you’re willing to do a little searching on YouTube, there’s a series called The Avengers. And it’s a Soviet TV series, about these teenagers who are in the Cheka, which was the secret police who were tracking down Tsarist troublemakers. So anyway, a lot of interesting stuff you can still find on YouTube. As I mentioned there are a lot of posters and inspirational pictures, I guess you could call it social realism.

One of them is this very iconic picture of Mother Russia holding up her hand. And it says Mother is calling because when the Germans invaded, not just the Germans, as they say, but the previous iteration of NATO, Germany, Hungary, Romania, Finland, various Swedish and Netherlands contingents that were in the SS. Yes, there were volunteers in the SS of these Western European countries. And so, on June 22nd, 1941 when Russia invaded, there’s this call to our country is under a severe attack of life and death.

We’ve got to get it together. And so there was a tremendous amount of motivational stuff that was going on there. Okay next, once I got to the end of Victory Park is the Victory Museum. And the Victory Museum is also very interesting. It’s the largest military museum I believe, in Europe. It has the largest collection of the World War II Era. I don’t know what the word is, mementos or items that were used in the war rockets, machine guns, uniforms, medals, all these kinds of things from both the Russian and the Axis sides.

And they also have some very interesting videos, one of which is a video that it’s basically just a, it’s panning hundreds of average Russian people and it’s playing a Russian era, a World War two era song that kind of memorializes these people. So, you get a sense that this is a big deal for them. I want to just I just ran a few numbers here. Pearl Harbor happened on December 7th, 1941, and around 3000 people died that day.

During the entire World War two, the United States lost 400,000 people over the course of a war that went from the Pearl Harbor attack until not only the Japanese but also the Germans were killed. So, it was a little over 1200 days and it worked out that about 327 soldiers because they were basically soldiers, not civilians. The U.S. was never attacked physically, but 327 U.S. soldiers died every day, which is pretty terrible. By contrast, the Soviet Union was attacked six months earlier and so their war lasted about six months longer than the US war lasted.

They lost about somewhere around 27 million people, which amounts to 19,000 people dead every day. 19,000 people were killed every day for over four years. And American people do not understand what real war entails. They see pictures of it. They may see videos. A lot of the stuff they see may not even be factual. It may be distorted, but they really don’t understand what is involved here. And when our government goes to war against Syria or Libya or Somalia or Afghanistan, to us, it’s just something that happens on television.

It’s not something that happens to other human beings. And Russians understand this. So, in the Victory Museum, in addition to the exhibition of what happened in World War Two, they also have exhibitions of what has happened since then. And they have an exhibition showing NATO in Afghanistan. They show pictures of Shandong in World War Two. These were the Ukrainian collaborators with the Germans called the organization of Ukrainian nationals. And these were people who carried out numerous atrocities just really horrific atrocities.

And then they show pictures of the flags of the Bandera people. Now, Bandera is honored by the modern Ukrainian state. So, this is something that people really need to get their heads around. And there’s a lot of resistance to that because Americans just have this view of ourselves as these innocent people. And I was talking with a woman, this Russian woman today. She’s 25 years old. And I said I support I have great sympathy for Russia because I understand your history.

And she said, yeah, well people have different ideas about what is going on in Ukraine right now but my understanding of what she’s saying is that this is America’s war. America started this war. And in her opinion, she said, well, Russia didn’t really need to respond in the way it did. And I said, well, I’m not sure I agree with that. And she says, Yeah, there’s a lot of people there’s people who also agree with your position. So, what I’m suggesting is that the Russian population is not monolithic. People have different ideas about what is going on and so on.

To give you an example, of what I’m talking about here, I think I may have mentioned I went into a travel agency and this woman said to me, “Oh, I’m going to America next year”. And I said, “Don’t go. America is a mess.” I mean, they’re spending all their money on Ukraine. And meanwhile, there are tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands of homeless people. The society is disintegrating. And you’ve got this idea. And she was tearing up. It was as if I was telling an eight-year-old that there was no Santa Claus.

And she finally politely kicked me out of the travel agency. So, you’ve got. That and this she’s probably around 30 years old. So, people have different ideas of what’s going on. And as I continued through Russia after I wanted oh, I wanted to mention there were some other museums that I went to. One was the Museum of Books. And this museum has original copies of, like, Madame Bovary. You know the famous French. It has an original copy of Cybernetics, which is by this is written in 1948. It was called something like control and Manipulation of animals and machines, which is pretty scary.

Animals and machines, he doesn’t talk about human beings. He says control of animals and machines, cybernetics. So, you can kind of see the roots of where we’re going with this whole technological revolution or devolution. Another museum I went to was an exhibition of a very famous Russian photographer who showed he took many Soviet-era photos classic photos of the crown of the czars and these kinds of things. And there was another exhibition of honoring people who built the Metro.

Now the metro is the subway system of Russia of Moscow. And it was started in the mid-30s, I believe. And the original stations were basically art museums. Yeah, they had mosaics of Soviet themes and pictures of Stalin or pictures of Lenin, pictures of the fraternal peoples of the Soviet Union, these kinds of things. And it just works of art actually. It’s like being in a muse literally. But it took tremendous effort to do this. And the original intent of it was not just to create a metro subway system.

It was also creating a bomb shelter for the Russian population during World War two, the Germans were bombing Moscow and people had to stay in the subway system. So, when you some of these subway stations, you’re going down these escalators and it’s down, down, down. I cannot believe how far down these stations are. Some of them were built below the Moscow River. And this is like the engineering that went into this is just phenomenal. So, I think I’ll probably end it there because my next stop on my journey was Lake Baikal, which is the oldest.

It’s like 30-million-year-old Lake, the deepest lake in the world. They don’t even know how deep it is because it’s at least 3,000 feet deep. And there are parts of it which there’s silt and they don’t know how far down the silt goes. So, this is a very, very old lake. And it’s got it has life forms that are seen nowhere else in the world. And so, I was fortunate to go there. I stayed on an island. This lake is so big that there’s actually an inhabited island with 140,000 people living there.

Jeff: Wow. I didn’t know that.

Eric: Yeah, this is pretty amazing. So, I went there, and then I spent time in Irkutsk, the city, where I’ll talk about Irkutsk in a future video which was also very interesting from this examination of Russian relations, talking with Russian people and experiencing what that was, what that’s like.

Jeff: And you also went to Volgograd, too, didn’t you?

Eric: Well, following Irkutsk, I went directly to Saint Petersburg. I stayed in Saint Petersburg for a couple of days and met up with a guy whom I’ve known for several years through Regis Trembley.

Jeff: Yeah, a mutual friend.

Eric: Yeah, a mutual friend. And he’s a real he’s a very interesting guy. I asked him what kind of work did you do? He said he was a biologist. I said, well, so tell me more. He says, well, I was a biologist, but at a certain point in my career, I was involved in genetics. He said, I just couldn’t do it anymore. And I completely focused entirely on geopolitics. He said that during the Soviet era, he was a dissident but he realized that at a certain point that he made a mistake. He didn’t realize what the West was really trying to do. And significantly, our mutual friend Irina has said exactly the same thing.

Jeff: Yeah, Irina Boyko.

Eric: Right. So, I’ll be talking about that. And, of course, Saint Petersburg is just it’s amazing. The Hermitage Museum is unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

Jeff: I’ll save it for the next show.

Eric: Well, no, that’s going to be for the next, next show.

Jeff: Next, next, next show. And then you still got Volgograd. So, we’ve got Lake Baikal, Irkutsk, Saint Petersburg, and Volgograd.

Eric: Right. And then back to Moscow.

Jeff: Back to Moscow for some more adventures. All right. Well, Eric, this is amazing. What I will do is I will give you a cloud link and you can just upload all of your annotated photos there and I’ll splice them all into everything so that these will be very audio-visual. And I’ll of course have these all transcribed into written text.

Eric: Okay. Now before you go, Jeff, you said if you have any questions? Has anything come up for you?

Jeff: Well, I would like to know and maybe today’s not the day because I want you to maybe think about it, but before we end your tour of Russia via China Rising Radio Sinoland, I would like to also point out that China also lost at least 25 million people, just as many people as the Russians did, the Soviets did in war during their civil war to get rid of the United States and England and France and the Japanese and the fascist KMT, and the fascist Chiang Kai Shek, who was being financed and supported by the Western imperialists.

They lost as many people as the Russians. So, if it wasn’t for the Chinese and the Russians, we would all be speaking German and Japanese. And again, even if you add all of the Americans and the Europeans and the allies and the add all together, civilian and military, it comes out to 900,000 people died during World War Two. Well, 50 million Chinese and Russians died. That’s 2%. They lost 50 times more people than the West did.

So, just like the Russians, the Chinese understand war because they have been attacked since the Middle Ages by steppe tribes the Mongols, and everybody else, and then the Westerners and then the Japanese, and now the Americans and NATO. So, they too, I think that’s why the Russians and the Chinese have such a sense of camaraderie and fraternity because they have both been victims of relentless, relentless Western aggression.

Eric: I might mention that when I was talking with my two Chinese friends, we talked that that issue came up and I said and my Chinese friend said something about how long the war was when China was invaded and I said China’s war was, what was it, eight years, it was initially attacked by the Japanese in 1937 before even the Soviet Union attacked.

Jeff: And it went on until 1949.

Eric: Yeah, it went on till 1949 after the Japanese.

Jeff: Yeah. Well, then they were fighting the Americans and the fascist Chiang Kai Shek until 49.

Eric: Yeah. And then Korea.

Jeff: And then Vietnam. They were using Vietnam to try to attack China. And it never ends when you’ve got a target on your back from Western Empire, that’s for sure. So, the Russians and the Chinese understand that. Right? So. Well, listen, and also, I want you to think about it and maybe take some notes. I do want before we leave to do the final show, I would like to just ask you, I’m sure there is everything from A to Z and black and white, but just your general impressions of what the various Russians today think about Lenin, Stalin, Khrushchev, Gorbachev and Putin.

And so, today’s not the day but think about it and maybe you know do that as in you know throughout the show or dedicate a few minutes for you to just give us some perspectives on what people think about these people who had a huge impact on the world and our history and our lives. All right, Eric. Well, I am back in the belly of the imperial beast. I’m back in Oklahoma, my home state, visiting my daughter son in law. And my new one-year-old granddaughter I’m having a ball with.

Eric: And so, let me ask you, are there, what is it like in the US right now?

Jeff: Well, I haven’t even left the house I just took the shuttle at midnight from the airport and I was in Atlanta airport and then Oklahoma City Airport and then a shuttle to this house and haven’t left. So, I haven’t even been out of the house. And I’ve got I’m having really bad jet lag this time. And so, I’m going to get I took a six-kilometer walk with my daughter and her and my granddaughter and her neighborhood yesterday. But it’s a suburban it’s a suburban ranch, home neighborhood.

It’s not Newark or Trenton or Compton or Portland, Oregon or San Francisco or Seattle or whatever. I mean, this is the heartland. But I’m going to start getting out today and see some. But again, my family lives in an I don’t want to say well-to-do, but solidly middle, middle, upper-class neighborhoods. And so, I’d have to drive across town to Mexico town and then another area where all the blacks live to see what you know what life is like for the average American. And maybe I will I’ll let you know. But we’re going to concentrate on Russia. That’s what the fans want to know about.

Eric: All right

Jeff: All right, Eric. I’ll give you a cloud file and just start annotating the number of your photos and put what you want to say in the name of the file. And then all the videos that you want and everything and we’ll get this all put together a nice audio-visual tour of Russia. All right?

Eric: All right.

Jeff: Jeff J. Brown China Rising Radio Sinoland in Oklahoma, USA with my good friend and comrade Eric Arnow in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Bye-bye.


Do yourself, your friends, family and colleagues a favor, to make sure all of you are Sino-smart: 

Google ebooks (Epub) and audiobooks:

44 Days Backpacking in China: The Middle Kingdom in the 21st Century, with the United States, Europe and the Fate of the World in Its Looking Glass

China Rising: Capitalist Roads, Socialist Destinations

BIG Red Book on China: Chinese History, Culture and Revolution

Amazon print and ebooks (Kindle):

44 Days Backpacking in China: The Middle Kingdom in the 21st Century, with the United States, Europe and the Fate of the World in Its Looking Glass

China Rising: Capitalist Roads, Socialist Destinations

BIG Red Book on China: Chinese History, Culture and Revolution

Author page:

Praise for The China Trilogy:


Why and How China works: With a Mirror to Our Own History



JEFF J. BROWN, Editor, China Rising, and Senior Editor & China Correspondent, Dispatch from Beijing, The Greanville Post

Jeff J. Brown is a geopolitical analyst, journalist, lecturer and the author of The China Trilogy. It consists of 44 Days Backpacking in China – The Middle Kingdom in the 21st Century, with the United States, Europe and the Fate of the World in Its Looking Glass (2013); Punto Press released China Rising – Capitalist Roads, Socialist Destinations (2016); and BIG Red Book on China (2020). As well, he published a textbook, Doctor WriteRead’s Treasure Trove to Great English (2015). Jeff is a Senior Editor & China Correspondent for The Greanville Post, where he keeps a column, Dispatch from Beijing and is a Global Opinion Leader at 21st Century. He also writes a column for The Saker, called the Moscow-Beijing Express. Jeff writes, interviews and podcasts on his own program, China Rising Radio Sinoland, which is also available on YouTubeStitcher Radio, iTunes, Ivoox and RUvid. Guests have included Ramsey Clark, James Bradley, Moti Nissani, Godfree Roberts, Hiroyuki Hamada, The Saker and many others. [/su_spoiler]

Jeff can be reached at China Rising, je**@br***********.com, Facebook, Twitter, Wechat (+86-19806711824/Mr_Professor_Brown, and Line/Signal/Telegram/Whatsapp: +33-612458821.

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